Staying on my theme of credit this month. I’m building on a post from my colleague in late August about credit scores. Last week I gave some real world numbers of the impact credit scores can have on mortgage payments and mortgage insurance.
This time I want to focus on how to avoid the worst parts of lower credit. What I mean is this… Is there a way to avoid the worst impact of a higher rate and/or higher mortgage insurance? Can we reduce the increase of a payment due to higher rate and/or mortgage insurance?
There isn’t much that can be done to improve someone’s credit score if they have legitimate missed payments OR a thin credit profile. That said, there are some things people can do to reduce the impact on the rate and/or mortgage insurance premiums for those with lower credit scores.
Pay off credit card debt: Let’s say a borrower’s credit score is low because of high utilization of credit card debt (not multiple late payments on credit accounts). A maxed out credit card is a quick way to lower a score, and paying it down/off is a great way to make the score jump. I had a client decide to make a 10% down payment instead of a 20% down payment. He used part of his originally planned down payment to pay off all credit card debt, and his credit scores went from the 660s to the 740s (just like weight loss programs, “results can vary.”) Sure, he now pays mortgage insurance. With a credit score over 740 and 10% down, he paid about $70 per month and got a great interest rate. While paying mortgage insurance is a bummer, the amount he was paying each month on his credit cards was way more than $70 per month AND he saved tens of thousands of dollars over the life of the loan by getting a lower rate.
Avoid store based credit cards: I see buyers get in trouble all the time with this. Sure getting an extra 10% off a purchase is nice, but it could cost you. Most store credit cards come with a low limit. Why? Because in a pinch, the first credit cards that don’t get paid are the ones to Kohls, Best Buy, Macy’s etc. These stores do not want a high balances to get reached, so they keep the limit down. Let’s say I get a store credit card to an electronics store to purchase a laptop for my child going back to school. If I get a limit of $1500 on this store credit card and the laptop costs $1200, all of the sudden it looks like I am close to maxing out a credit card and credit scores go lower. Credit score models are not based on total limits versus total debt load. It looks at each credit card individually in terms of its utilization. Also, most people forget to pay store credit cards. It happens A LOT. A missed credit card payment is a missed payment whether it is a major credit card or a store credit card.
Make a larger down payment: It doens’t seem like much, but putting more than the minimum down payment can make a big difference on mortgage insurance and also the interest rate.
10% down versus 5%: while the rate is the same, the mortgage insurance payment drops by 40% in my examples from last week AND the borrower will not be required to even pay the mortgage insurance as long as it is for someone making the minimum down payment.
20% down: if paying off debt isn’t an option (meaning, legitimate late payments and/or collections), then this gets rid of mortgage insurance entirely. The rate will still be higher, but it avoids the double whammy of higher rates and higher mortgage insurance premiums.
40% down: yeah, that is a large down payment. Why am I pointing it out? When putting 40% down, a borrower gets the same rate whether they have a 660 credit score or an 800+ score. The rate is only slightly worse (say 0.250% higher) for credit scores in the 620-659 range.
15 year fixed loans: The rate for 15 year loans are the same whether a borrower has a 620 credit score or one over 800. Yes, you read that correctly. Maybe a large down payment isn’t possible. Perhaps paying down credit card debt isn’t an option. This could be. Also if making less than a 20% down payment, the difference in mortgage insurance is about $110 more per month for a 679 credit score versus a score over 760. Borrowers avoid a much higher rate, avoid the bigger brunt of the mortgage insurance increase AND get the benefit of paying off their home in half the time versus a 30 year loan.
Co-Borrower on the loan: this one sounds silly, but it’s true. Let’s say the borrower has a significant other they were not planning on being on the loan. Perhaps they are self employed and do not show a lot of income. Perhaps they are the primary caregiver for their children and earn no income outside of the home. The reason does not matter. If their credit score is the same (or better) than the primary borrowers, the mortgage insurance premiums each month drop by roughly 20% simply by having two people on the loan (the mortgage rate is still the same).
FHA loans: when all else fails, this is a great option. I’ve said FHA loans until now for two reasons. One is the up front mortgage insurance premium rolled into the loan amount (meaning borrowers do not pay this out of pocket at closing as it is added to the loan itself) and the mortgage insurance is permanent. The advantages of an FHA loan is the rate will be better for someone with a credit score under 680 (versus a conventional loan), and the mortgage insurance each month would be less. If this isn’t a “forever” home, then the word “permanent” isn’t as scary. We could do a compare/contrast to see if an FHA loan is beneficial to a borrower’s monthly cash flow.
VA loans: for those who qualify, there is no monthly mortgage insurance, and the rate isn’t as bad for those with lower credit scores compared to conventional loans.
There you have it. Some ways to mitigate the impact of lower credit scores when purchasing a home. I know this can all be overwhelming. If you are looking to buy a home in Georgia, need a mortgage, and have some credit problems, contact me today to get started. We can take a look at your situation and see what we can do to mitigate the impact on your home loan.
Last month my colleague Rodney Shaffer evaluated a recent Zillow study on credit scores. His post focused on what makes up a credit score. This post will focus more on the impacts of the credit score.
We all know a lower credit score leads to a higher interest rate. A real world example is a rate about 0.750% higher for someone with a 760 credit score versus someone with a score under 680. In the mortgage world, once a score is at/above 760, it doesn’t matter anymore. They get the same rate at 760 versus 800+.
When you factor the rate difference on a loan of $300,000, using today’s rates, the payment is roughly $140 more per month. Over 30 years, this is $50,000 more of interest paid for having the lower rate.
Sadly, it doesn’t stop there. If mortgage insurance is required, it’s even worse. Using the same $300,000 loan amount, someone with a 760 credit score with 5% down would pay about $60 per month. If the credit score dropped to 679, the mortgage insurance payment would increase to $260 per month… $200 more per month.
Combined a borrower with a 760 credit score would pay roughly $350 less per month if they got a loan at $300,000 with 5% down versus someone with a credit score just under 680.
There is a big difference in rates and mortgage insurance once someone goes below 680. With a credit score of 680, the rate difference is just 0.375% (payment difference on the loan is $80). Mortgage insurance is about $160 per month. So you can see the range of paying $180 more if the credit score is in the upper 600s versus $350 more per month once the credit score drops below 680 (and gets worse the closer a borrower gets to a 620 score).
It’s a lot and frustrating. These numbers are also why I recommend clients do an FHA loan once their credit scores fall below 680. Next time, I’ll focus more on ways to help your situation in the event of a lower credit score.
Wanting to talk credit and getting a loan in the state of Georgia, contact me today to get started!
A recent study from Consumer Reports found over a third of Americans have at least one error on their credit report. Considering how important credit scores are for home loans, car loans, credit cards, and even rental agreements (and a growing trend in the employment/hiring process), this is problematic.
Some takeaways from their findings:
29% of respondents uncovered errors with their personal information
11% found mistakes regarding their account information, which could damage their credit score,
Often consumers find out about issues too late in the game as they are usually in the process of buying a home/car and do not have time to get errors corrected.
The Consumer Data Industry Association, which represents the major credit reporting companies, has called the Consumer Reports investigation “completely false and misleading.” The CDIA claims the credit reporting industry has a 98% accuracy rate on credit profiles and cautioned against reading into the study’s conclusions because it’s based on a non-empirical survey of consumers.
Regardless of the number errors occurring, it means there are errors out there. What can a consumer do?
The government required the three main credit bureaus set up AnnualCreditReport.com so consumers can get a copy of the report for free. Credit reports from Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion should be available for free once a year.
It is a good idea to check your credit report at least once a year for errors. If considering a major purchase in the next 12 months, then today is a good day to check for errors. If spaced out, one could check a major bureau every 4 months (Equifax in January, Trans Union in May, and Experian in September). Since most credit accounts report to all three, there is a way to try and keep an eye on all of it (for free) for up to three times a year.
If errors are found, the Federal Trade Commission provides a sample letter you and your clients can send to credit bureaus to dispute errors.
Unfortunately, if there is an error on one’s credit report, it is a “guilty until proven innocent” situation for the consumer. This is why checking one’s credit report is crucial – especially if there is a large purchase on the horizon. If planning/checking/reviewing early, it leaves time for errors to be corrected.
A new law recently took effect allowing consumers to freeze and unfreeze their credit with the three main credit bureaus – Equifax, Experian and TransUnion. The push for this changed started in 2017 with the the massive data breach at Equifax, which exposed the personal information of more than 145 million consumers to hackers.
What is a credit freeze? When a consumer “freezes” their credit, they have essentially locked their credit. No one (not a person, bank, car dealership, etc.) can access a consumer’s credit while frozen. This means new credit accounts cannot be opened, and is the surest way (not a 100% guarantee) to prevent fraud. Freezes can become problematic when a consumer needs to apply for credit as one has to go through the process of unfreezing their credit before applying.
The change was put in place by the Economic Growth, Regulatory Relief, and Consumer Protection Act signed into law earlier this year. Before the change, every state had their own rules about credit freezes. It could cost as much as $10 to freeze (and throw on another $10 to lift a freeze) one’s credit. The days of fees are gone. Some other highlights of the new law:
As discussed, consumers can now freeze and unfreeze their credit for free.
Parents can put a freeze on their children’s credit for free (applies to children under 16).
Guardians, conservators, and those with a valid power of attorney can also get a free freeze for their dependents.
Fraud alerts placed on a consumer’s credit file will be extended from 90 days to one year.
It hopefully just got a little more difficult for scammers to abuse someone’s credit information! How to put a freeze on your credit? Consumers must contact each of the three major credit agencies independently to place a credit freeze on their accounts.
Some consumers credit scores are going up! A recent overhaul in the way the major credit bureaus factor in negative credit information is prompting millions of consumers’ credit scores to rise. The main reason? The removal of some collection items.
Over the past 12 months, collection items were removed from eight million consumers’ credit reports. The NY Federal Reserve said consumers who had at least one collection item/account removed from their credit reports saw on average an 11-point increase to their scores. Why the change in collection items being part of the credit score? Some collection categories often have mistakes/errors that lower potential buyers credit scores and keep them out of the borrowing market.
The three main bureaus (Equifax, Experian PLC, and TransUnion) all agreed to rework credit reports reports stemming from a 2015 settlement. In the settlement, some of the collection items removed were non-loan related items such as gym memberships, library fines, traffic tickets, and some instances of medical debt. This change would not include credit cards or loan related accounts. Those type of accounts that enter into a collection category will still negatively impact a potential home buyer’s credit score. any firms agreed to remove some non-loan related items that were sent to collection firms, such as gym memberships, library fines, and traffic tickets. They also agreed to strike medical-debt collections that have been paid by a patient’s insurance company. According to an article in the Wall Street Journal, those seeing the biggest boost to their credit scores are those with a score in the mid 600s.
This is a great move by the credit bureaus. Sometimes it is easier to prove that one owes money with the account in good standing, and harder to prove one no longer owes a debt. Some debts such as tax liens, credit card collections, back taxes, car/student loans in default, etc. are easier to prove the debt is actually in arrears. Arguing about a library account in a city one may have lived in 5 years ago becomes troubling and difficult to prove. While these accounts aren’t being removed from a credit report/history, they are being ignored when it comes to producing the credit score.
In the last post, we looked at how lending guidelines require specific waiting periods for different types of “derogatory items” on a borrower’s credit report. Then we zeroed in on waiting periods following a property foreclosure. In this post, we will cover the waiting periods required after bankruptcy filings. As with foreclosures, the different mortgage types specify different waiting periods. The waiting periods also vary by the type of bankruptcy filed – Chapter 7 or Chapter 13.
Let’s start with Chapter 7 – the required waiting periods are as follows:
FHA – 2 years from the discharge date
VA – 2 years from the discharge date
Conventional – 4 years from the discharge or dismissal date
Jumbo – 7 years from the discharge date
The waiting period calculations get a bit more complicated with Chapter 13 bankruptcy filings. The Chapter 13 waiting periods are as follows:
FHA – 1 year from the start of the payout period, as long as the borrower has made all required payments on time.
VA – 2 years from the discharge date, or if the Chapter 13 is in repayment, the Trustee must document satisfactory payment history for 12 months of the payout period and the court must give permission to enter into a mortgage transaction
Conventional – 2 years from the discharge date or 4 years from the dismissal date
Jumbo – 7 years from the discharge date.
So ultimately the good news here is that you don’t have to wait “forever” to apply for a new mortgage after a bankruptcy – unless of course you want a jumbo loan. (7 years is a long time to wait.) As always, FHA and VA loans are more “forgiving” of past credit problems.
Do you or someone you know have a bankruptcy in your past and now want to buy a home? It may be possible to make it happen. Be sure to work with a lender who will ask detailed questions and help coach you to the best option for your specific situation. I’ve recently closed loans for multiple clients “bouncing back” after a bankruptcy. It brings joy to close that loan and help my clients reach another financial milestone following their struggles. Call me at Dunwoody Mortgage and let’s determine the best option for you or whomever you know with a past bankruptcy.
Our nation’s economy has shown positive growth for several years now, following the Great Recession. Many folks who were hit hard during the recession have rebounded and are doing well now. Back when times were tough, they may have faced financial crises like home foreclosures or bankruptcies. These financial crises appear as “derogatory items” on a credit report.
So let’s say your cousin Phil went through a really tough stretch financially. But he persevered, got that new job, has been paying his bills on time and is saving some money. He asks you if you think he can win mortgage approval now so he can buy a new home. Like most people, you really don’t know how to counsel Phil, until now!
You can tell Phil that certain derogatory credit items carry mandatory waiting periods – he must let a specific amount of time pass before he can apply for a new mortgage. There are different waiting periods for foreclosures, bankruptcies, and short sales. And the waiting periods also vary by the type of loan Phil can get – FHA, VA, jumbo, or conventional.
Let’s start with a foreclosure. Phil wasn’t able to make his home payments and the bank foreclosed. Here are the required waiting periods by loan type:
FHA – 3 years
VA – 2 years
Conventional – 7 years, unless the foreclosure was part of a bankruptcy, in which case the wait is 4 years
Jumbo – 7 years
It is important to note that the waiting period “clock” starts when the foreclosure deed is recorded with the county. In some cases, it may take the foreclosing bank several months to document and record the foreclosure deed after seizing the property. So as a borrower with a past foreclosure, Phil needs to understand that the waiting period clock does not start on the date that the bank seizes the home. I have run into situations where the bank took quite a few months to record the foreclosure deed, and this little date detail almost delayed the new mortgage. Many times, the borrower may not know when the prior bank filed the deed after the foreclosure; however, this information is public record and most counties have the data available online now.
We will look at waiting periods after bankruptcies in the next post. For now, if you or someone you know is like Phil and wants to buy a home, but has a past foreclosure, please refer them to me at Dunwoody Mortgage. I will pay close attention to the details and even look up the old property online, if necessary, to make sure the borrower meets all lending guidelines. Don’t waste time looking for a home until you have a high degree of confidence you can close! I’ll work with you up front to give you the confidence you need.
Last week, we focused on using conventional loans to purchase a home after a major derogatory credit event such as a bankruptcy, short sale, foreclosure, etc. This week, we will focus on VA and FHA loans offered by the government.
In every instance, a government loan has a shorter waiting period after one of these events. It is the loan of choice to use if it will fit your needs. Let’s discuss the waiting periods:
Chapter 7 bankruptcy: requires a 2-year wait
Chapter 13 bankruptcy: requires a 1-year wait from the beginning of the payout period
Multiple bankruptcy filings: VA requires only 2 years, but FHA is a case-by-case basis
Foreclosure: VA once again is only 2 years, but FHA is 3 years.
VA Specific: in order the qualify for a VA loan (in addition to being a veteran), there must be a 1 year minimum of re-established after the judgement dates and other derogatory events paid/resolved
FHA Specific: If HUD has a claim against a borrower for a foreclosed/short sold home (and that home was financed using an FHA loan), a borrower isn’t eligible for a new FHA loan until after 3 years from the date of the claim being paid.
As anyone can read here, government loans have a much shorter waiting period than conventional loans. As low as one year, but mostly just a 2-year wait. An FHA or VA loan would be the preferred method for buying a home after one of these major events. That said, there a couple of situations that make conventional loans the way to go:
the borrower is not eligible for a VA loan (so you go FHA unless….)
the loan needed to purchase a home will exceed the maximum FHA allowed loan amount
there is a claim against the borrower from HUD
a borrower is not eligible for an FHA loan due to CAIVRS (a government credit monitoring tool to ensure people who take out government loans pay them back)
The last two on the list are not that common, so buying a home within the FHA maximum loan limits would be the way to go. In addition to a shorter waiting period, the interest rate tends to be better than conventional loans, the borrower only needs a 3.5% down payment, and the monthly mortgage insurance rate is lower. A borrower’s credit score will confirm those items, but in general, those are all reasons why FHA loans are the best way to go after a derogatory credit event.
Completed a bankruptcy two years ago, and ready to buy a home in Georgia? If so, we can get started today in the process. Contact me and we’ll make sure you qualify for a loan, and then send you out looking for your next home.
An unforeseen event takes place… a medical event, job loss, divorce, death of a spouse… before you know it, bills are piling up and they never seem to end. Eventually this buildup could result in a bankruptcy, foreclosure, short sale… a major derogatory credit event. Once it is over, will you ever be able to buy a home again?
The answer is yes. During the housing boom, someone could apply for a loan the day after completing a bankruptcy. Let’s just say guidelines are different now, but not insurmountable. Most people assume there is a 7-year wait after something as big as a bankruptcy or foreclosure. That is true if you are looking to qualify for a Jumbo loan (any loan amount over $424,100). On the other hand, if you are looking to buy a home for say $350,000 with the minimum down payment, is it still a 7-year wait?
No, definitely not.
This post will focus on conventional loans. Next time, we’ll discuss government loans.
What are the waiting periods? Using today’s guidelines*:
Chapter 7 bankruptcy: requires a 4-year wait
Chapter 13 bankruptcy: requires a 2-year wait from the discharge date, but 4 years from the dismissal date if the Chapter 13 bankruptcy application isn’t accepted by the courts
Multiple bankruptcy filings: 5-year wait
Foreclosure: 7 years unless the home was included in a bankruptcy filing. In that case, it drops from 7 to 4 years
Other: There is a 4-year wait for a deed-in-lieu of foreclosure, short sale, or the sale of a home during the foreclosure process
*Those are Fannie Mae guidelines. Technically, Freddie Mac does not have minimum waiting period. Underwriting goes by the Automated Underwriting Services findings from Freddie Mac. That said, the “findings” often mirror the guidelines of Fannie Mae.
In only one of these instances is there a 7-year waiting period. That would be if there was a foreclosure on a home that was not included in a bankruptcy. In every other situation, one could be ready to purchase a home much sooner than 7 years. Government loans are much more forgiving, but conventional loans are to be used in situations where a borrower doesn’t qualify for a VA or FHA loan (more on that next week). Also, the maximum loan amounts on FHA loans are lower than conventional loans, so the purchase price could also play into determining which loan program to use.
Have you filed a bankruptcy, but want to own a home again? You don’t have to wait seven years. If you have re-established credit to a qualifying score, buying a home can come sooner than you think. Unsure of your situation? Purchasing a home in Georgia? If yes to both, contact me today. We can start the prequalification process and see how quickly we can get you into a new home.
A recent survey reported that 2.7 times more first time home buyers than repeat buyers believe they must improve their credit scores before buying a house.First let’s dispel credit score myths.A home buyer can possibly win mortgage approval with a credit score as low as 620.If your score is 620 or higher, you can possibly win loan approval.
If your score is less than 620, you need to work to improve it before you can qualify.If your score is 620 or higher, you may want to take steps to increase your score as better scores tend to lower mortgage costs.Note that I am not a credit score repair specialist, but here are some basic, fundamental tips to improve your credit score:
Pay down your credit card balances:You get the best score on each credit card account when your balance is less than 1/3 of that account’s credit limit.Your score drops when your balance is more than 1/3 of the limit.And your score drops even further if your score is more than ½ of the credit limit.
Pay your bills on time:Late payments lower your score.The later the payment, the more your score is penalized.
Time heals all wounds:The more time that has elapsed since your last late payment, the less those late payments will affect your current score.Some credit issues have mandatory waiting periods.For example, if your credit report shows a bankruptcy, 2 years must elapse before you can obtain a FHA mortgage, and 3 years must elapse before you can qualify for a conventional mortgage.
Resolve account disputes now:Mortgage underwriters hate account disputes.If you have disputes on credit accounts, go ahead and resolve them prior to applying for a mortgage.
Be aware of collections accounts:Note that I didn’t say to pay them off. Sometimes, paying off a collection account will actually lower your credit score.If you want to buy a home in the next 12 months or so, it may be best to just know about the collections accounts – you may have to deal with them as part of your mortgage process.In some cases, we require the borrower to bring enough cash to close and to pay off collections account balances as part of the mortgage closing process.
If you want to buy a house in Georgia, get a good idea of your credit score and your monthly debt payments. Then call me to discuss your loan options. I’ll invest time coaching you on the best ways to help you win loan approval.
Clay Jeffreys is a Mortgage Consultant with Dunwoody Mortgage Services and a writer for “the Mortgage Blog.” If you would like to be a guest writer for "the Mortgage Blog" please contact Clay for details.